So I stirred up a bunch of questions with that video about RIP software and dye based ink systems. Let me clarify the point. You don’t necessarily need RIP and all black ink systems when you’re just starting out. If you’re not making halftones then RIP is unnecessary. AccuRIP makes the claim that their software lays down more ink than without it and that may be the case. But it only uses one print head at a time either way. However, there is only so much ink it can lay down before the ink will run off the film. Inkjet film is an acetate film with an “emulsion” coated on one side.
The more emulsion there is the more inkjet ink the film can take. But not all inkjet film positives are created equal. Of course my inkjet film positives are the best 😉 Now here’s the key. If you’re using an excellent emulsion like my Saati textile PC Blue then your film positive does not need to be 100% opaque. Poor emulsions need the best film positives while more dynamic and higher quality emulsions will work with a decent film positive. Never in my experience have I ever seen a completely 100% opaque light blocking film positive. But I have seen an emulsion making all the difference in the stencil making process. Try these items on an industrial black lamp fluorescent exposure unit without RIP and tell me how easy it is to make a screen.
These are the exact same products I use in the Catspit videos to make screens.
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4219 South 37th Street
Phoenix, AZ 85040
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